{"id":23,"date":"2013-09-02T14:34:51","date_gmt":"2013-09-02T11:34:51","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.liliumreklam.com\/dur\/?p=23"},"modified":"2019-12-13T01:10:06","modified_gmt":"2019-12-12T22:10:06","slug":"ayanoros-erkekler-cumhuriyeti-dis-gezi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/?p=23","title":{"rendered":"Ayanoros Erkekler Cumhuriyeti (D\u0131\u015f gezi)"},"content":{"rendered":"

$\"atos10\"$ <\/a>Meryem Bah\u00e7esi’nde Orta\u00e7a\u011f\u0131 ya\u015fad\u0131m<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/h1>\n
Ege Denizi karar\u0131nca, Atos Da\u011f\u0131<\/span><\/strong> uykuya dald\u0131. Her \u015fey ad<\/span><\/span>eta “G\u00fc<\/span><\/span>l\u00fcn Ad\u0131”\u00a0<\/span><\/span>roman\u0131ndaki ya da filmindeki gibi. Zaman sanki donup kalm\u0131\u015f. Aynaros’da ya da \u00f6zg\u00fcn ad\u0131yla Meryem Bah\u00e7esi’nde g\u00fcne\u015f, hala bir 15. y\u00fczy\u0131l d\u00fcnyas\u0131 \u00fczerinde do\u011fup bat\u0131yor. Umberto Eco’nun “G\u00fcl\u00fcn Ad\u0131” <\/strong><\/span><\/span>kitab\u0131n\u0131 ya da ondan\u00a0<\/span><\/span>uyarlanan filmi an\u0131ms\u0131yor musunuz? Oradaki orta\u00e7a\u011f <\/span><\/span>manast\u0131r\u0131nd<\/span><\/span>a, <\/span><\/span>her g<\/span><\/span>\u00fcndelik i\u015fi, papazlar ilkel ko\u015fullarda kendileri yaparlard\u0131. Toplam 900 Ortadoks ke\u015fi\u015fin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 Ayanor<\/span><\/span>os’daki manast\u0131rlarda da \u00f6yl<\/span><\/span>e… “G\u00fcl\u00fc<\/span><\/span>n Ad\u0131”nda, zaman orta\u00e7a\u011f idi. O<\/span><\/span>y<\/span><\/span>s<\/span><\/span>a Ayanoros ya da \u00f6zg\u00fcn ad\u0131yla Agion Oros’ta zaman, bug\u00fcnk\u00fc zaman. Ama her \u015fey 15. y\u00fc<\/span><\/span>zy\u0131ldaki gibi… <\/span><\/span>Y\u00fckselen\u00a0<\/strong>kayal\u0131klara ya<\/span><\/span>p\u0131lm<\/span><\/span>\u0131\u015f Romen Manast\u0131r\u0131’na, da\u011f yollar\u0131ndaki <\/span><\/span>uzun ve zahmetli bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015ften s<\/span><\/span>onra ula\u015fabilirsiniz. Ben de \u00f6yle yapt\u0131m. Ak\u015fama do\u011fru ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m m<\/span><\/span>anast\u0131rda, “Ho\u015fgeldiniz ikram<\/span><\/span>\u0131” rak\u0131,
\nsu, ka<\/span><\/span>hve ve lok<\/span><\/span>umdu. Tam 50 papaz\u0131n ya\u015fa<\/span><\/span>d\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve benim gitti\u011fi<\/span><\/span>m Pazar g\u00fcn\u00fc, Selanik’ten \u00f6zel vize alarak benimle\u00a0<\/span><\/span>birlikte feribotla adaya gelen y\u00fczlerce\u00a0 ortadoksun kat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u0131l\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck yortu ayini, (sa\u011fdaki foto\u011frafta g\u00f6r\u00fclen renkli) B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra (\u0130stanbul) Manast\u0131r\u0131’nda yap\u0131ld\u0131. Ayanoros’a, Ortadoks olmayanlar ayak basam\u0131yor.<\/strong> Fener Patri\u011fi Bartelemos’un \u00f6zel mektubu \u00fczerine, Ba\u015fpapaz Angolidos Yakodos’un (85) davetlisi olarak kat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131m <\/span><\/span>yemekte; alt\u0131nda y\u0131llanm\u0131\u015f \u015farap mahsenleri bulunan\u00a0 mermer masalar\u0131n \u00fczerinde m\u00fckemmel bir sofra vard\u0131.\u00a0<\/span><\/span>Ortadoks olmayanlar\u0131n ayak basmas\u0131na izin verilmeyen ve e<\/span>\u015fcinselli\u011fin me\u015fru oldu\u011fu Atos Da\u011f<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>\u0131 Manast\u0131rlar\u0131nda Orta\u00e7a\u011f\u0131 ya\u015fayan Ortadoks ke\u015fi\u015fler; kad\u0131nlar\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>ba\u015fta olmak \u00fczere, Ayan Oros’ta hi\u00e7bir di\u015fi canl\u0131n\u0131n\u00a0 ya\u015famas\u0131na izin vermiyorlar. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc, Meryem Ana’dan sonra gelen t\u00fcm di\u015filerin “\u015feytan” oldu\u011funa inan\u0131l\u0131yor. Olanlara a\u011f\u0131z dolusu g\u00fclen, Ayan Oros’un kedi ve k\u00f6pekleri bile erkek…<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n
\u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc, Meryem Ana’dan sonra gelen t\u00fcm di\u015filerin \u015feytan oldu\u011funa inan\u0131yorlar. Musayipzade Celal’in “Ayanoros Kad\u0131s\u0131” oyununu izlemelisiniz, yeniden…<\/span><\/strong> Manast\u0131rlarda ya\u015fam, her sabah saat 04:00’te \u00e7an sesleriyle ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Saat 06:00’ya kadar, her 15 dakikada bir, elindeki uzun kalasa a\u011fa\u00e7 tokmakla vurarak melodik sesler \u00e7\u0131karan uyand\u0131rma g\u00f6revlisi papaz, manast\u0131r\u0131n her k\u00f6\u015fesinde dola<\/span><\/span>\u015f\u0131yor.
\nD\u0131\u015f duvarlar\u0131 k\u0131z\u0131la boyal\u0131 ve \u00e7at\u0131s\u0131 ince ta\u015f kapl\u0131 ya\u015fl\u0131 kilisede \u00f6nce \u00fc\u00e7 mum yak\u0131l\u0131yor; sonra da sabah duas\u0131 yap\u0131l\u0131yor.
\nKahvalt\u0131 sonras\u0131, herkes i\u015finin ba\u015f\u0131na gidiyor. Tarlalarda, ba\u011flarda bah\u00e7elerde \u00e7al\u0131\u015fanlar, manast\u0131rlar\u0131n ve papaz evlerinin mutfa\u011f\u0131ndan marangozhanesine her i\u015fini yapan, hep papazlar\u0131n kendileri.
\nManast\u0131rlarda \u00fcretilen ikonalar, kutsal resimler yine hep zanaatkar papazlar taraf\u0131ndan \u00fcretiliyor ve Aynaroz’daki ya\u015fam\u0131n \u00f6nemli bir gelir kayna\u011f\u0131n\u0131 olu\u015fturuyor.
\nBu yar\u0131madada tam bir “<\/span><\/span>kom\u00fcn” hayat\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcren 20 ile 90 ya\u015flar\u0131 aras\u0131ndaki bin papaz, ilgin\u00e7 bir i\u015fb\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc i\u00e7inde, ihtiya\u00e7 olan her \u015feyi \u00fcretiyor ve \u00fcretilen her \u015feyi de payla\u015f\u0131yorlar. <\/span><\/span>
\n
\n<\/span><\/span>Kutsal da\u011f\u0131n \u00f6zelli\u011fi<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n
Bug\u00fcn Athos’taki 20 manast\u0131r\u0131n 17’sinde Yunanl\u0131, di\u011fer \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnde ise Rus, Bulgar ve S\u0131rp papaz topluluklar\u0131 var. Ayr\u0131ca yar\u0131madan\u0131n ula\u015f\u0131lmas\u0131 olduk\u00e7a g\u00fc\u00e7 b\u00f6lgelerinde, 14 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck manast\u0131r ve “katismata” diye adland\u0131r\u0131lan, sert bir din e\u011fitiminin verildi\u011fi ilgin\u00e7 rahip evleri yer al\u0131yor.
\nAthos’ta ilgi \u00e7ekici olan, yaln\u0131zca oradaki ruhban organizasyonu de\u011fil. Bu y\u00f6re, orta\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n e\u015fsiz mimari yap\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131yor. En basit rahip evinden k\u00f6pr\u00fc ve \u00e7e\u015fmelere kadar, her \u015fey 15. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n izlerini ta\u015f\u0131yor. Bunu, yaln\u0131zca mimaride de\u011fil, marangozluk i\u015flerinden seramiklere, metal i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011finden dokumalara her alanda g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n
Osmanl\u0131’dan imtiyazl\u0131<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n
Bir elin parmaklar\u0131 misali, Ege Denizi’ne uzanan \u00fc\u00e7 yar\u0131madadan birincisi olan Aynaroz, Yunanistan s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, “\u00f6zerk” bir ‘Ortodoks Ruhani Cumhuriyeti’. Osmanl\u0131’n\u0131n verdi\u011fi bu imtiyaz\u0131, 1927’de Yunanistan da onaylam\u0131\u015f ve bug\u00fcn, iki bin yedi y\u00fcz n\u00fcfusu ile Aynaroz, kutsall\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ve gizemli \u00f6zelliklerini s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcyor.
\nYar\u0131madan\u0131n en y\u00fcksek noktas\u0131 Athos Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n yama\u00e7lar\u0131nda, de\u011fi\u015fik milletlerden bin civar\u0131nda Ortodoks papaz\u0131, manast\u0131r, kilise ve da\u011f evlerinde ya\u015f\u0131yor. Kutsal Athos Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n en parlak d\u00f6nemine \u015fahit olan 15. y\u00fczy\u0131lda ise her birinde biner ke\u015fi\u015f bulunan 30 manast\u0131r varm\u0131\u015f.
\n20. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ortalar\u0131nda, bu din adamlar\u0131n\u0131n say\u0131s\u0131 d\u00f6rt bine, manast\u0131rlar\u0131n toplam\u0131 da 20’ye d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f.
\nAynaroz’a kara yoluyla gitmek “yasak”. Yar\u0131mada, kad\u0131nlara da yasak. Buradaki erkekler, “d\u00fcnya nimetleri”nden ellerini eteklerini \u00e7ekmi\u015fler. Aynaroz’un d\u00fcnya ile ili\u015fkisi de deniz yoluyla kuruluyor. Ouranoupolis tatil k\u00f6y\u00fcnden, feribotla gidiliyor Aynaroz’a.<\/p>\n
Be\u015f g\u00fcn be\u015f gece zikir<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n
Silifke Ortodoks Metropoliti Krilos sayesinde Aynaroz’a ayak basan ilk T\u00fcrk olarak burada, 5 g\u00fcn 5 gece kal\u0131p ayinlere kat\u0131lmak, Anadolu topraklar\u0131ndan g\u00f6\u00e7 eden kimi Rumlar\u0131n buradaki ya\u015famlar\u0131n\u0131 izlemek, benim i\u00e7in bir ayr\u0131cal\u0131kt\u0131.
\nBu sayede, Athos Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n zirvesine yak\u0131n bir kul\u00fcbede inzivaya \u00e7ekilmi\u015f Selimpa\u015fal\u0131 (Silivri) papaz Rodostolo Hrisostolo ile T\u00fcrk\u00e7e sohbetin keyfini de \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131m.
\nAthos Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n defne kokulu yama\u00e7lar\u0131na, deniz k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki u\u00e7urumlar\u0131n \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilmi\u015f dev kale kentlerin kilise, manast\u0131r ve papaz evlerindeki hayat\u0131 da izledim. (Devam edecek)
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n
\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Meryem Bah\u00e7esi’nde Orta\u00e7a\u011f\u0131 ya\u015fad\u0131m\u00a0 Ege Denizi karar\u0131nca, Atos Da\u011f\u0131 uykuya dald\u0131. Her \u015fey adeta “G\u00fcl\u00fcn Ad\u0131”\u00a0roman\u0131ndaki ya da filmindeki gibi. Zaman sanki donup kalm\u0131\u015f. Aynaros’da ya da \u00f6zg\u00fcn ad\u0131yla Meryem Bah\u00e7esi’nde g\u00fcne\u015f, hala bir 15. y\u00fczy\u0131l d\u00fcnyas\u0131 \u00fczerinde do\u011fup bat\u0131yor. Umberto Eco’nun “G\u00fcl\u00fcn Ad\u0131” kitab\u0131n\u0131 ya da ondan\u00a0uyarlanan filmi an\u0131ms\u0131yor musunuz? Oradaki orta\u00e7a\u011f manast\u0131r\u0131nda, her …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1164,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[66,65],"tags":[27,26,16,28],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=23"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7178,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/23\/revisions\/7178"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1164"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=23"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=23"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=23"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}