{"id":10732,"date":"2021-12-07T11:48:31","date_gmt":"2021-12-07T08:48:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/?p=10732"},"modified":"2022-02-22T01:49:40","modified_gmt":"2022-02-21T22:49:40","slug":"athos-dagi-ayan-oros-meryem-bahcesi-dis-gezi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/?p=10732","title":{"rendered":"Athos Da\u011f\u0131, Ayan Oros (Meryem Bah\u00e7esi) (d\u0131\u015f gezi)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ayan Oros;<\/strong> Meryem Bah\u00e7esi demektir. Ben de, bu kutsal topraklar\u0131n ayazmas\u0131ndan (kutsal suyundan) i\u00e7mek ve oradaki gizemli ya\u015fam\u0131 belgeleyip yazmak i\u00e7in, \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131nca bir yolculu\u011fa \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m\u2026 Kad\u0131nlar\u0131n, di\u015fi olan canl\u0131lar\u0131n ve Ortadoks olmayanlar\u0131n ayak basmas\u0131n\u0131n g\u00fcnah ve yasak oldu\u011fu Erkekler Cumhuriyeti Ayan Orfoz\u2019ta, 5 g\u00fcn Orta \u00c7a\u011f\u0131 ya\u015fad\u0131m\u2026<\/strong> Zorlu bir 5 g\u00fcn\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vize ve gerekli izin belgeleriniz tamam ise, \u0130stanbul\u2019dan otob\u00fcs ile \u0130psala s\u0131n\u0131r kap\u0131s\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p, Yunanistan topraklar\u0131nda bulunan ve 1924 M\u00fcbadele ac\u0131lar\u0131na tan\u0131k olan Nea Kalvari, Kavala ya da Selanik\u2019<\/strong>e gidebilirsiniz. Daha sonra ise, belirli zamanlarda kalkan Ada feribotuna binmek i\u00e7in evraklar\u0131n\u0131z\u0131 ve biletinizi haz\u0131rlay\u0131n\u0131z. Ayan Oros <\/strong>feribotuna binmek i\u00e7in, Ouranoupolis Tatil K\u00f6y\u00fc\u2019ndeki <\/strong>iskeleden kalkan feribot ile yakla\u015f\u0131k iki saat s\u00fcre i\u00e7inde Ayan Oros iskelesine gidiliyor. Bu iskeleden sonra ise, ara\u00e7 olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n i\u00e7in y\u00fcr\u00fcmeniz gerekli\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ege Denizi kararmadan, 2033 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011findeki Atos Da\u011f<\/strong>\u0131 uykuya dald\u0131. Her \u015fey adeta \u201cG\u00fcl\u00fcn Ad\u0131\u201d roman\u0131ndaki ya da filmindeki gibi. Zaman sanki donup kalm\u0131\u015f. Ayan Oros\u2019da ya da \u00f6zg\u00fcn ad\u0131yla Meryem Bah\u00e7esi\u2019nde g\u00fcne\u015f, hala bir 15. y\u00fczy\u0131l d\u00fcnyas\u0131 \u00fczerinde do\u011fup bat\u0131yor. Umberto Eco\u2019nun \u201cG\u00fcl\u00fcn Ad\u0131\u201d <\/strong>kitab\u0131n\u0131 ya da ondan uyarlanan filmi an\u0131ms\u0131yor musunuz? Oradaki Orta\u00e7a\u011f manast\u0131r\u0131nda, her g\u00fcndelik i\u015fi, erkek papazlar ilkel ko\u015fullarda kendileri yaparlard\u0131. Toplam 2250 Ortadoks ke\u015fi\u015fin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 Ayan Oros<\/strong>\u2019daki manast\u0131rlarda da \u00f6yle\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ayan Oros-Athos<\/strong> (Yunanca<\/a>: \u0386\u03b3\u03b9\u03bf\u03bd \u038c\u03c1\u03bf\u03c2 – Meryem Bah\u00e7esi-Kutsal Da\u011f<\/em>)<\/strong>, Balkanlar<\/a>‘da Yunanistan<\/strong><\/a>‘\u0131n <\/strong>Halkidiki<\/strong><\/a> Yar\u0131madas\u0131<\/strong>ndan Ege Denizi<\/a>‘ne do\u011fru uzanan 3 dar ve uzun yar\u0131madan\u0131n en do\u011fuda (T\u00fcrkiye-Trakya taraf\u0131nda) olan\u0131. Do\u011fu Ortodoks manast\u0131r\u0131n\u0131n \u00f6nemli bir merkezidir. Yunanistan Cumhuriyeti i\u00e7inde \u00f6zerk bir h\u00fck\u00fbmet olarak y\u00f6netilmektedir. Ayan Oros yar\u0131madas\u0131n\u0131n topra\u011f\u0131 kalkerli olup, olduk\u00e7a da\u011fl\u0131kt\u0131r. En y\u00fcksek noktas\u0131 adan\u0131n en g\u00fcneyindeki Athos Da\u011f\u0131<\/strong><\/a> (2033m). <\/strong>N\u00fcfusun \u00e7o\u011funlu\u011fu rahiplerden meydana gelir ve 2250 ki\u015fi <\/strong>kadard\u0131r. Athos Da\u011f\u0131’nda, Konstantinopolis Ek\u00fcmenik Patri\u011finin do\u011frudan yetkisi alt\u0131nda 20 kadar manast\u0131r<\/strong> vard\u0131r. Devletin y\u00f6netim bi\u00e7imi 20 manast\u0131r\u0131 temsil eden, kendi g\u00fcvenliklerini ve kendi gereksinimlerini kendilerinin kar\u015f\u0131lad\u0131\u011f\u0131 Ayan Oros\u2019da; 20 ki\u015fi ve k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir meclis taraf\u0131ndan y\u00f6netilir ve Yunanistan<\/a>‘a ba\u011fl\u0131d\u0131r. Halk\u0131n ba\u015fl\u0131ca gelir kayna\u011f\u0131 zeytin<\/a> ve \u00fcz\u00fcmc\u00fcl\u00fck gibi Akdeniz<\/a> \u00fcr\u00fcnleri ve hayvanc\u0131l\u0131kt\u0131r. Bal\u0131k\u00e7\u0131l\u0131k, zeytincilik, ar\u0131c\u0131l\u0131k ve \u015farap\u00e7\u0131l\u0131k \u00f6nemle gelir kaynaklar\u0131d\u0131r\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Athos Da\u011f\u0131,<\/strong> Yunanca’da genellikle Agion Oros (\u0386\u03b3\u03b9\u03bf\u03bd \u038c\u03c1\u03bf\u03c2, ‘Kutsal Da\u011f’) <\/strong>ve varl\u0131k “Athonite Eyaleti”<\/em> (\u0391\u03b8\u03c9\u03bd\u03b9\u03ba\u03ae \u03a0\u03bf\u03bb\u03b9\u03c4\u03b5\u03af\u03b1, Athonik\u00ed Polit\u00eda) olarak an\u0131l\u0131r. Di\u011fer Ortodoks gelene\u011fi dillerinde ‘Kutsal Da\u011f’ anlam\u0131na gelen isimler de kullan\u0131lmaktad\u0131r. Buna Bulgarca ve S\u0131rp\u00e7a (\u0421\u0432\u0435\u0442\u0430 \u0433\u043e\u0440\u0430, Sveta gora); Rus\u00e7a (\u0421\u0432\u044f\u0442\u0430\u044f \u0433\u043e\u0440\u0430, Svyataya gora); ve G\u00fcrc\u00fcce (\u10db\u10d7\u10d0\u10ec\u10db\u10d8\u10dc\u10d3\u10d0, mtats\u2019minda) dahildir. Klasik \u00e7a\u011fda da\u011f Athos olarak adland\u0131r\u0131l\u0131rken, yar\u0131mada Act\u00e9 veya Akt\u00e9 (Koin\u0113 Yunanca: \u1f08\u03ba\u03c4\u03ae) olarak biliniyordu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Bir elin be\u015f parma\u011f\u0131 gibi Ege Denizi\u2019ne uzanan ve T\u00fcrkiye taraf\u0131nda bulunan yar\u0131m adan\u0131n (bu yar\u0131m adalara kara ba\u011flant\u0131s\u0131 kapal\u0131 oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in, ula\u015f\u0131m denizden sa\u011flanmaktad\u0131r) ad\u0131: Ayan Oros<\/strong>\u2019tur. Ayan Oros\u2019un en y\u00fcksek da\u011f\u0131 olan Athos Da\u011f\u0131,<\/strong> eski zamanlardan beri bir yerle\u015fim yeridir ve yakla\u015f\u0131k 1800 y\u0131ll\u0131k Hristiyan varl\u0131\u011f\u0131 <\/strong>ve en az MS 800 ve Bizans d\u00f6nemine dayanan uzun tarihi manast\u0131r gelenekleriyle bilinir. Bug\u00fcn, Yunanistan ve Romanya, Moldova, G\u00fcrcistan, Bulgaristan, S\u0131rbistan ve Rusya gibi Do\u011fu Ortodoks \u00fclkeleri <\/strong>de dahil olmak \u00fczere, di\u011fer bir\u00e7ok \u00fclkeden 2 binden fazla ke\u015fi\u015f<\/strong>, Athos’ta d\u00fcnyan\u0131n geri kalan\u0131ndan izole edilmi\u015f bir hayat ya\u015f\u0131yor. Athonite Manast\u0131rlar\u0131, iyi korunmu\u015f eserler, nadir kitaplar, eski belgeler ve muazzam tarihi de\u011fere sahip sanat eserlerinden olu\u015fan zengin bir koleksiyona sahiptir ve Athos Da\u011f\u0131, 1988’den beri bir D\u00fcnya Miras\u0131 <\/strong>alan\u0131 olarak listelenmi\u015ftir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ayan Oros – Athos Da\u011f\u0131<\/strong>, yasal olarak Yunanistan’\u0131n geri kalan\u0131 gibi Avrupa Birli\u011fi’nin bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, yaln\u0131zca Ortadoks erkeklerin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 Kutsal Da\u011f’\u0131n \u00d6zerk Manast\u0131r Devleti<\/strong> ve Athonite kurumlar\u0131, Yunanistan’\u0131n Avrupa Toplulu\u011funa (AB’nin \u00f6nc\u00fcs\u00fc) kabul\u00fc s\u0131ras\u0131nda yeniden onaylanan \u00f6zel bir yarg\u0131 yetkisine sahiptir. Bu, Manast\u0131r Devletinin yetkililerine, topraklar\u0131ndaki insanlar\u0131n ve mallar\u0131n serbest dola\u015f\u0131m\u0131n\u0131 d\u00fczenleme yetkisi verir. 10. y\u00fczy\u0131lda dinsel bir topluluk olarak do\u011fan Ayan Oros, Bizans<\/a>, Osmanl\u0131<\/a> ve Yunanistan<\/a> egemenlikleri boyunca da ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 korumay\u0131 ba\u015farm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Athos Da\u011f\u0131’na g\u00fcnl\u00fck ziyaret\u00e7i say\u0131s\u0131 s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131d\u0131r ve hepsinin s\u0131n\u0131rl\u0131 bir s\u00fcre i\u00e7in ge\u00e7erli \u00f6zel bir giri\u015f izni almas\u0131 gerekmektedir. Ortodoks Hristiyanlar izin alma prosed\u00fcrlerinde \u00f6nceliklidir. Yar\u0131mada sakinleri, Do\u011fu Ortodoks Kilisesi \u00fcyesi olan 18 ya\u015f ve \u00fcst\u00fc erkekler ve ayn\u0131 zamanda ke\u015fi\u015f veya i\u015f\u00e7i olmaktad\u0131r. COVID-19 salg\u0131n\u0131yla m\u00fccadele tedbirlerinin bir par\u00e7as\u0131 olarak Athos Da\u011f\u0131 ziyaretleri 19-30 Mart 2020 tarihleri aras\u0131nda ask\u0131ya al\u0131nm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Manast\u0131rlar\u0131n Mimari Yap\u0131s\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ayan Oros’<\/strong>un ortak bir plana g\u00f6re yap\u0131lan 20 manast\u0131r\u0131 da ortak bir mimari yap\u0131dad\u0131r. Hepsi kuleli bir surla \u00e7evrilmi\u015f olan geni\u015f avlulu kalelerdir. 10. y\u00fczy\u0131lda yap\u0131lmaya ba\u015flanm\u0131\u015f olan kiliseler dinsel konulu Bizans<\/a> duvar resimleriyle s\u00fcslenmi\u015flerdir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ayan Oros\u2019da bulunan 20 Manast\u0131r:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

  1. Meg\u00edsti L\u00e1vra Manast\u0131r\u0131 (\u039c\u03b5\u03b3\u03af\u03c3\u03c4\u03b7 \u039b\u03b1\u03cd\u03c1\u03b1)<\/strong><\/li>
  2. Vatop\u00e9di (\u0392\u03b1\u03c4\u03bf\u03c0\u03ad\u03b4\u03b9 veya \u0392\u03b1\u03c4\u03bf\u03c0\u03b1\u03af\u03b4\u03b9)<\/li>
  3. \u0130viron (\u0399\u03b2\u03ae\u03c1\u03c9\u03bd, \u10d8\u10d5\u10d4\u10e0\u10dd\u10dc\u10d8\u10e1 \u10db\u10dd\u10dc\u10d0\u10e1\u10e2\u10d4\u10e0\u10d8<\/em> – G\u00fcrc\u00fc manast\u0131r\u0131)<\/li>
  4. Hilandariu (\u03a7\u03b9\u03bb\u03b1\u03bd\u03b4\u03b1\u03c1\u03af\u03bf\u03c5, \u0425\u0438\u043b\u0430\u043d\u0434\u0430\u0440<\/em> – S\u0131rp manast\u0131r\u0131)<\/li>
  5. Dionysiu (\u0394\u03b9\u03bf\u03bd\u03c5\u03c3\u03af\u03bf\u03c5)<\/li>
  6. Kutlumusiu (\u039a\u03bf\u03c5\u03c4\u03bb\u03bf\u03c5\u03bc\u03bf\u03cd\u03c3\u03b9)<\/li>
  7. Pantokratoros (\u03a0\u03b1\u03bd\u03c4\u03bf\u03ba\u03c1\u03ac\u03c4\u03bf\u03c1\u03bf\u03c2)<\/li>
  8. Ksiropotamu (\u039e\u03b7\u03c1\u03bf\u03c0\u03bf\u03c4\u03ac\u03bc\u03bf\u03c5)<\/li>
  9. Zografu (\u0396\u03c9\u03b3\u03c1\u03ac\u03c6\u03bf\u03c5, \u0417\u043e\u0433\u0440\u0430\u0444<\/em> – Bulgar manast\u0131r\u0131)<\/li>
  10. Dohiariu (\u0394\u03bf\u03c7\u03b5\u03b9\u03b1\u03c1\u03af\u03bf\u03c5)<\/li>
  11. Karakalu (\u039a\u03b1\u03c1\u03b1\u03ba\u03ac\u03bb\u03bb\u03bf\u03c5)<\/li>
  12. Filoteu (\u03a6\u03b9\u03bb\u03bf\u03b8\u03ad\u03bf\u03c5)<\/li>
  13. Simonos Petra (\u03a3\u03af\u03bc\u03c9\u03bd\u03bf\u03c2 \u03a0\u03ad\u03c4\u03c1\u03b1 veya \u03a3\u03b9\u03bc\u03c9\u03bd\u03cc\u03c0\u03b5\u03c4\u03c1\u03b1)<\/li>
  14. Agiu Pavlu (\u0391\u03b3\u03af\u03bf\u03c5 \u03a0\u03b1\u03cd\u03bb\u03bf\u03c5)<\/li>
  15. Stavronikita (\u03a3\u03c4\u03b1\u03c5\u03c1\u03bf\u03bd\u03b9\u03ba\u03ae\u03c4\u03b1)<\/li>
  16. Ksenofondos (\u039e\u03b5\u03bd\u03bf\u03c6\u03ce\u03bd\u03c4\u03bf\u03c2)<\/li>
  17. Osiu Grigoriu (\u039f\u03c3\u03af\u03bf\u03c5 \u0393\u03c1\u03b7\u03b3\u03bf\u03c1\u03af\u03bf\u03c5)<\/li>
  18. Esfigmenu (\u0395\u03c3\u03c6\u03b9\u03b3\u03bc\u03ad\u03bd\u03bf\u03c5)<\/li>
  19. Agiu Panteleimonos (\u0391\u03b3\u03af\u03bf\u03c5 \u03a0\u03b1\u03bd\u03c4\u03b5\u03bb\u03b5\u03ae\u03bc\u03bf\u03bd\u03bf\u03c2 veya \u03a1\u03c9\u03c3\u03b9\u03ba\u03cc, \u0421\u0432\u044f\u0442\u043e\u0433\u043e \u041f\u0430\u043d\u0442\u0435\u043b\u0435\u0438\u043c\u043e\u043d\u0430<\/em> – Rus manast\u0131r\u0131)<\/li>
  20. Konstamonitou (\u039a\u03c9\u03bd\u03c3\u03c4\u03b1\u03bc\u03bf\u03bd\u03af\u03c4\u03bf\u03c5)<\/li><\/ol>\n\n\n\n

    B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra Manast\u0131r\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Ayan Oros<\/strong> i\u00e7inde bulunan 20 Manast\u0131rdan en eskisi ve en g\u00f6rkemlisi olan B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra Manast\u0131r\u0131<\/strong>, bir sanat ve mimari zengin yap\u0131 olarak hala yakta durmaktad\u0131r\u2026 B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra (\u03b5\u03b3\u03af\u03c3\u03c4\u03b7\u03c2 \u039b\u03b1\u03cd\u03c1\u03b1\u03c2 ) \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilen ilk manast\u0131r olan Athos Da\u011f\u0131<\/a> Da\u011f\u0131n g\u00fcneydo\u011fu ete\u011finde 160 metre (170 yd) y\u00fckseklikte yer almaktad\u0131r. Manast\u0131r\u0131n MS: 963’te Athonite Athanasius<\/a> taraf\u0131ndan kurulmas\u0131. Athos Da\u011f\u0131’ndaki organize manast\u0131r ya\u015fam\u0131n\u0131n ba\u015flang\u0131c\u0131n\u0131 i\u015faret ediyor. Manast\u0131r\u0131n bulundu\u011fu yerde, Ayan Oros Yar\u0131madas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n antik kentlerinden biri, belki de manast\u0131r\u0131n ya\u011f deposundaki lahitlerin geldi\u011fi Akrothooi vard\u0131. Manast\u0131r\u0131n tarihi, di\u011fer manast\u0131rlar\u0131n tarihine k\u0131yasla, en eski ve eksiksiz olan\u0131d\u0131r. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc tarihi ar\u015fivleri, bug\u00fcne dek neredeyse bozulmadan korunmu\u015ftur. Bu ar\u015fivlerin incelenmesinin, ar\u015fivleri k\u0131smen veya tamamen kaybolmu\u015f olan di\u011fer manast\u0131rlar\u0131n tarih bilgilerinin tamamlanmas\u0131na katk\u0131 sa\u011flamas\u0131 olas\u0131d\u0131r.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Kurulu\u015f<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra’n\u0131n kurucusu Athanasius, arkada\u015f\u0131 ve projeyi finanse eden Bizans \u0130mparatoru <\/a>II. Nikephoros’un<\/a> vasiyetine g\u00f6re binalar\u0131n yap\u0131m\u0131na 963 y\u0131l\u0131nda ba\u015flad\u0131. Nikephoros, Athanasius’a yak\u0131nda, B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra’n\u0131n bir ke\u015fi\u015fi olaca\u011f\u0131na s\u00f6z vermi\u015fti. Ancak ko\u015fullar ve \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc bu planlar\u0131 iptal etti. I. \u0130oannis Tzimiskes<\/a> taraf\u0131ndan iki kat\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131lan kal\u0131c\u0131 bir imparatorluk hibesi, binalar\u0131n entegrasyonuna izin verdi. \u0130mparatorlar da adas\u0131nda dahil \u00f6zelli\u011finin B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra di\u011fer bir\u00e7ok toprak veren Aziz Eustratius<\/a> ve Manast\u0131r\u0131 Aziz Andreas<\/a> i\u00e7inde Selanik<\/a>. Bu, ke\u015fi\u015flerin 80’den 120’ye \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131na neden oldu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Daha sonraki tarih<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Athonite Athanasius’un<\/a> (11. y\u00fczy\u0131l) biyografisine g\u00f6re yap\u0131 projesi, koruyucu duvarla ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f ve kilise<\/a> ve h\u00fccrelere kadar<\/a> devam etmi\u015ftir. Athanasius’un \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnden sonra, manast\u0131r<\/a> normal i\u015fleyi\u015fine devam etti. \u0130mparatorlar geli\u015fimini destekledi ve 11. y\u00fczy\u0131lda 700 ke\u015fi\u015f vard\u0131. Daha k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck manast\u0131rlar, B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra’ya devredildi. 14. y\u00fczy\u0131lda manast\u0131r, Athos Da\u011f\u0131’n\u0131n di\u011fer t\u00fcm manast\u0131rlar\u0131 gibi, Aragon taht\u0131ndan \u0130spanyollardan<\/a> ve di\u011fer korsanlardan ac\u0131 \u00e7ekti. \u00c7ok kez ya\u011fmaland\u0131. Kriz sonucu ke\u015fi\u015fli\u011fin tuhaf bir \u015fekilde olu\u015fumu idi. Idiorrhythmic Yolu<\/a>, resmi kilisenin ve imparatorlar\u0131n itirazlar\u0131na ra\u011fmen. 1574 y\u0131l\u0131nda \u0130skenderiye Patri\u011fi<\/a>, Sylvester<\/a>, yard\u0131mc\u0131 ve manast\u0131r alt\u0131nda tekrar ameliyat manast\u0131r t\u00fcr\u00fc ke\u015fi\u015fli\u011fin<\/a> ama yak\u0131nda tuhaf ke\u015fi\u015flik tekrar tan\u0131t\u0131ld\u0131. 1655 y\u0131l\u0131nda, kendisi de ke\u015fi\u015f<\/a> olan Patrik <\/a>III. Kenobit ya\u015fam\u0131na d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f, ancak sonu\u00e7suz kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. 1980’den beri manast\u0131r kenobit olmu\u015ftur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Binalar<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Ana kilise (Katholikon), in\u015faat s\u0131ras\u0131nda kubbelerden birinin d\u00fc\u015fmesi sonucu, di\u011fer 6 i\u015f\u00e7iyle birlikte hayat\u0131n\u0131 kaybeden Athanasius taraf\u0131ndan bulunmu\u015ftur. Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n mimari tarz\u0131, koro ve duan\u0131n iki geni\u015f alan\u0131 ile karakterize edilir. Bu tarz daha sonra kutsand\u0131 ve di\u011fer manast\u0131rlar taraf\u0131ndan kopyaland\u0131. Freskler 1535 y\u0131l\u0131nda b\u00fcy\u00fck ressam Theophanis taraf\u0131ndan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Ancak narteks<\/a> 1854 y\u0131l\u0131nda boyanm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r. Narteksin ( liti<\/em> ) kuzeyinde<\/em> , Athanasius’un mezar\u0131n\u0131n bulundu\u011fu Sebaste K\u0131rk \u015eehitleri<\/a> \u015eapeli bulunmaktad\u0131r. G\u00fcney ve Liti<\/em> ait \u015fapel bulunmaktad\u0131r. Aziz Nicholas<\/a> 1560 Franco Cantellano taraf\u0131ndan boyanm\u0131\u015f, trapeza<\/a> merkezi giri\u015finin kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda \u00e7apraz bir \u015fekle sahiptir. Adan\u0131n en y\u00fcksek yeri Athos Da\u011f\u0131 b\u00fcy\u00fc\u011f\u00fcd\u00fcr. \u0130\u00e7erisi Theophanis veya okulu taraf\u0131ndan boyanm\u0131\u015f fresklerle doludur.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u0130stanbul\u2019dan Ka\u00e7\u0131r\u0131lan Sanat Hazineleri<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    K\u00fct\u00fcphane<\/a> manast\u0131r\u0131n ana kilisenin arkas\u0131nda yer al\u0131r. 2116 <\/strong>Yunanca<\/strong><\/a> el yazmas\u0131 ve 165 kodeks i\u00e7erir.<\/strong> Aralar\u0131nda uncial <\/a>el yazmalar\u0131<\/a> aras\u0131nda \u0130ncil’in<\/a>: Codex Coislinianus<\/a>, Codex Athous Lavrensis<\/a>, 049 Uncial<\/a>, Uncial 0167<\/a> ve minuscules<\/a> 1073, 1505, 2524, 1519, ayn\u0131 zamanda \u00fczerinde 20.000 bas\u0131lan kitaplar <\/strong>ve di\u011fer dillerde yakla\u015f\u0131k 100 el yazmas\u0131 kitap <\/strong>vard\u0131r. Koleksiyon, d\u00fcnyadaki en zengin Yunan el yazmas\u0131 koleksiyonlar\u0131ndan biridir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Vestry<\/a> ana arkas\u0131nda kilisenin<\/a> en \u00f6nemli eserler baz\u0131lar\u0131, bir el yazmas\u0131 olan gospel<\/a> bir ile alt\u0131n<\/a> Nikephoros II Phokas bir hediye ve Athanasius beri ke\u015fi\u015flerin listesi (Kouvaras)’dir kapak. B\u00fct\u00fcn tarihini kapsayan 2500 simgeler vard\u0131r <\/strong>men\u00e2k\u0131bn\u00e2mede<\/a> ait ikinci bin<\/a> d\u00f6neminden kalma. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u00d6te yandan; Lavra Manast\u0131r\u0131 k\u00fct\u00fcphanesi ve \u00f6zel ar\u015fiv b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcnde<\/strong> ise; \u00e7ok dil bilen gen\u00e7 Osmanl\u0131 Padi\u015fah\u0131 Fatih Sultan Mehmet\u2019<\/strong>in 1453 y\u0131l\u0131 \u00f6ncesi,<\/strong> \u0130stanbul\u2019u fethedece\u011fini \u00f6ng\u00f6ren, Bizans Yetkilileri ve Ortadoks Kilisesi Papazlar\u0131; Ayasofya Kilisesi ve \u0130stanbul\u2019daki ba\u015fka yerlerde bulunan k\u0131ymetli tarihi eserleri, belgeleri, resimleri, tablo ve heykellerin \u00e7ok \u00f6nemli bir k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131, buradan (Kostantinopolis)\u2019den alarak; Ayan Oros Adas\u0131\u2019ndaki B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra Manast\u0131r\u0131<\/strong> depolar\u0131na ta\u015f\u0131m\u0131\u015flard\u0131r. Bu eserlerin bir k\u0131sm\u0131, burada sergilenmektedir\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Erkekler Cumhuriyeti Kutsal Ada\u2019da 5 g\u00fcn, 5 gece <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    M\u00fcsayipzade Celal<\/strong>\u2019in yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 \u201cAyan Oros Kad\u0131s\u0131\u201d <\/strong>tiyatrosunu izleyece\u011fim, yeniden\u2026 \u201cG\u00fcl\u00fcn Ad\u0131\u201dnda, zaman Orta\u00e7a\u011f idi. Oysa, Ayan Oros ya da \u00f6zg\u00fcn ad\u0131yla Agion Oros\u2019ta zaman, bug\u00fcnk\u00fc zaman. Ama her \u015fey 15. y\u00fczy\u0131ldaki gibi\u2026 Y\u00fckselen kayal\u0131klara yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f Romen Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019na, da\u011f yollar\u0131ndaki uzun ve zahmetli bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015ften sonra ula\u015fabilirsiniz. Ben de \u00f6yle yapt\u0131m. Ak\u015fama do\u011fru ula\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m manast\u0131rda, \u201cHo\u015fgeldiniz ikram\u0131\u201d rak\u0131, su, kahve ve lokumdu. Tam 50 papaz\u0131n ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve benim gitti\u011fim Pazar g\u00fcn\u00fc, Selanik\u2019ten \u00f6zel vize alarak benimle birlikte feribotla adaya gelen y\u00fczlerce  Ortadoksun kat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u0131l\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck yortu ayini, (sa\u011fdaki foto\u011frafta g\u00f6r\u00fclen renkli) B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra (\u0130stanbul) Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019nda yap\u0131ld\u0131. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Ayanoros\u2019a, Ortadoks olmayanlar ayak basam\u0131yor.<\/strong> Fener Patri\u011fi Bartelemos\u2019un \u00f6zel mektubu \u00fczerine, Ba\u015fpapaz Angolidos Yakodos\u2019un (85) davetlisi olarak kat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131m yemekte; alt\u0131nda y\u0131llanm\u0131\u015f \u015farap mahsenleri bulunan  mermer masalar\u0131n \u00fczerinde m\u00fckemmel bir sofra vard\u0131. Ortadoks olmayanlar\u0131n ayak basmas\u0131na izin verilmeyen ve e\u015fcinselli\u011fin me\u015fru oldu\u011fu Atos Da\u011f\u0131 Manast\u0131rlar\u0131nda Orta\u00e7a\u011f\u0131 ya\u015fayan Ortadoks ke\u015fi\u015fler; kad\u0131nlar ba\u015fta olmak \u00fczere, Ayan Oros\u2019ta hi\u00e7bir di\u015fi canl\u0131n\u0131n  ya\u015famas\u0131na izin vermiyorlar. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc, Meryem Ana\u2019dan sonra gelen t\u00fcm di\u015filerin \u201c\u015feytan\u201d oldu\u011funa inan\u0131l\u0131yor. Olanlara a\u011f\u0131z dolusu g\u00fclen, Ayan Oros\u2019un e\u015fekleri, atlar\u0131, kedi ve k\u00f6pekleri bile erkek\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc, Meryem Ana\u2019dan sonra gelen t\u00fcm di\u015filerin \u015feytan oldu\u011funa inan\u0131yorlar. Musayipzade Celal\u2019in \u201cAyanoros Kad\u0131s\u0131\u201d<\/strong> oyununu izlemelisiniz, yeniden\u2026 Manast\u0131rlarda ya\u015fam, her sabah saat 04:00\u2019te \u00e7an sesleriyle ba\u015fl\u0131yor. Saat: 06:00\u2019ya kadar, her 15 dakikada bir, elindeki uzun kalasa a\u011fa\u00e7 tokmakla vurarak melodik sesler \u00e7\u0131karan uyand\u0131rma g\u00f6revlisi papaz, manast\u0131r\u0131n her k\u00f6\u015fesinde dola\u015f\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    D\u0131\u015f duvarlar\u0131 k\u0131z\u0131la boyal\u0131 ve \u00e7at\u0131s\u0131 ince ta\u015f kapl\u0131 ya\u015fl\u0131 kilisede \u00f6nce \u00fc\u00e7 mum yak\u0131l\u0131yor; sonra da sabah duas\u0131 yap\u0131l\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Kahvalt\u0131 sonras\u0131, herkes i\u015finin ba\u015f\u0131na gidiyor. Tarlalarda, ba\u011flarda bah\u00e7elerde \u00e7al\u0131\u015fanlar, manast\u0131rlar\u0131n ve papaz evlerinin mutfa\u011f\u0131ndan marangozhanesine her i\u015fini yapan, hep papazlar\u0131n kendileri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Manast\u0131rlarda \u00fcretilen ikonalar, kutsal resimler yine hep zanaatkar papazlar taraf\u0131ndan \u00fcretiliyor ve Ayan Oros\u2019daki ya\u015fam\u0131n \u00f6nemli bir gelir kayna\u011f\u0131n\u0131 olu\u015fturuyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Bu yar\u0131madada tam bir \u201ckom\u00fcn\u201d hayat\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcren 20 ile 90 ya\u015flar\u0131 aras\u0131ndaki bin papaz, ilgin\u00e7 bir i\u015f b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc i\u00e7inde, ihtiya\u00e7 olan her \u015feyi \u00fcretiyor ve \u00fcretilen her \u015feyi de payla\u015f\u0131yorlar. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Kutsal da\u011f\u0131n \u00f6zelli\u011fi<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Bug\u00fcn Athos\u2019taki 20 manast\u0131r\u0131n 17\u2019sinde Yunanl\u0131, di\u011fer \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnde ise Rus, Bulgar ve S\u0131rp papaz topluluklar\u0131 var. Ayr\u0131ca yar\u0131madan\u0131n ula\u015f\u0131lmas\u0131 olduk\u00e7a g\u00fc\u00e7 b\u00f6lgelerinde, 14 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck manast\u0131r ve \u201ckatismata\u201d <\/strong>diye adland\u0131r\u0131lan, sert bir din e\u011fitiminin verildi\u011fi ilgin\u00e7 rahip evleri yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Athos\u2019ta ilgi \u00e7ekici olan, yaln\u0131zca oradaki ruhban organizasyonu de\u011fil. Bu y\u00f6re, orta\u00e7a\u011f\u0131n e\u015fsiz mimari yap\u0131lar\u0131n\u0131 bar\u0131nd\u0131r\u0131yor. En basit rahip evinden k\u00f6pr\u00fc ve \u00e7e\u015fmelere kadar, her \u015fey 15. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n izlerini ta\u015f\u0131yor. Bunu, yaln\u0131zca mimaride de\u011fil, marangozluk i\u015flerinden seramiklere, metal i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011finden dokumalara her alanda g\u00f6rmek m\u00fcmk\u00fcn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Osmanl\u0131\u2019dan imtiyazl\u0131<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Bir elin parmaklar\u0131 misali, Ege Denizi\u2019ne uzanan \u00fc\u00e7 yar\u0131madadan birincisi olan Aynaroz, Yunanistan s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131 i\u00e7inde olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen, \u201c\u00f6zerk\u201d bir \u2018Ortodoks Ruhani Cumhuriyeti\u2019. Osmanl\u0131\u2019n\u0131n verdi\u011fi bu imtiyaz\u0131, 1927\u2019de Yunanistan da onaylam\u0131\u015f ve bug\u00fcn, iki bin yedi y\u00fcz n\u00fcfusu ile Ayan Oros, kutsall\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ve gizemli \u00f6zelliklerini s\u00fcrd\u00fcr\u00fcyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Yar\u0131madan\u0131n en y\u00fcksek noktas\u0131 Athos Da\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n yama\u00e7lar\u0131nda, de\u011fi\u015fik milletlerden bin civar\u0131nda Ortodoks papaz\u0131, manast\u0131r, kilise ve da\u011f evlerinde ya\u015f\u0131yor. Kutsal Athos Da\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n en parlak d\u00f6nemine \u015fahit olan 15. y\u00fczy\u0131lda ise her birinde biner ke\u015fi\u015f bulunan 30 manast\u0131r varm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    20. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ortalar\u0131nda, bu din adamlar\u0131n\u0131n say\u0131s\u0131 d\u00f6rt bine, manast\u0131rlar\u0131n toplam\u0131 da 20\u2019ye d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Aynaroz\u2019a kara yoluyla gitmek \u201cyasak\u201d. Yar\u0131mada, kad\u0131nlara da yasak. Buradaki erkekler, \u201cd\u00fcnya nimetleri\u201dnden ellerini eteklerini \u00e7ekmi\u015fler. Ayan Oros\u2019un d\u00fcnya ile ili\u015fkisi de deniz yoluyla kuruluyor. Ouranoupolis tatil k\u00f6y\u00fcnden, feribotla gidiliyor Ayan Oros\u2019a\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Be\u015f g\u00fcn be\u015f gece zikir<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Silifke Ortodoks Metropoliti Krilos sayesinde Aynaroz\u2019a ayak basan ilk T\u00fcrk olarak burada, 5 g\u00fcn 5 gece kal\u0131p ayinlere kat\u0131lmak, Anadolu topraklar\u0131ndan g\u00f6\u00e7 eden kimi Rumlar\u0131n buradaki ya\u015famlar\u0131n\u0131 izlemek, benim i\u00e7in bir ayr\u0131cal\u0131kt\u0131.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Bu sayede, Athos Da\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n zirvesine yak\u0131n bir kul\u00fcbede inzivaya \u00e7ekilmi\u015f Selimpa\u015fal\u0131 (Silivri) ya\u015fl\u0131 papaz Rodostolo Hrisostolo <\/strong>ile T\u00fcrk\u00e7e sohbetin keyfini de \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Nas\u0131l gidiler ve nerede konaklama yap\u0131l\u0131r?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Yunanistan\u2019a \u015eengel vizesiyle gittikten sonra, Selanik ya da Kavala\u2019ya yak\u0131n olan ve bir elin \u00fc\u00e7 parma\u011f\u0131 gibi Ege Denizi\u2019ne uzanan \u00fc\u00e7 yar\u0131madadan biri olan, T\u00fcrkiye taraf\u0131ndaki (kara ba\u011flant\u0131s\u0131 olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in \u201cKutsal Ada\u201d<\/strong> olarak adland\u0131r\u0131lan) Ayanosros<\/strong>\u2019a gitmek i\u00e7in vize ve feribot bileti al\u0131nan Ouranoupoli<\/strong>‘deki Guest-house, pansion, hostel ve k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck otellerde konaklaman\u0131z m\u00fcmk\u00fcnd\u00fcr. Ama ben direk olarak veribot ile Ayanoros\u2019a gittim. Lavra ve Romen Manast\u0131r\u0131 Konukevi\u2019nde kald\u0131m. Atos Da\u011f\u0131<\/strong>\u2019na t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f\u0131m ise, korku dolu bir ba\u015fka macera olmu\u015ftu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Bir M\u00fcsl\u00fcman Gazeteci Yasak B\u00f6lgede<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    O zamanlar, ben Milliye Gazetesi gezi yazar\u0131 olarak \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yordum. \u201c1924 M\u00fcbadele Ac\u0131s\u0131\u201d <\/strong>ba\u015fl\u0131kl\u0131 \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmam kapsam\u0131nda; Kapadokya, Ege ve Trakya M\u00fcbadilleri yan\u0131 s\u0131ra; Yunanistan ve Bulgaristan\u2019daki m\u00fcbadillerle yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m r\u00f6portajlar ve Ayan Oros izlenimlerim; \u201cT\u00fcrkiye Gazeteciler Cemiyeti Yerel Bas\u0131n \u00d6d\u00fcl\u00fc-2001\u201d<\/strong> alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131m\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Ouranoupoli\u2019deki Yunan Polis Merkezinden vizemi ve bileti almak i\u00e7in belirli bir \u00fccret bedeli \u00f6demelisiniz. Ayanoros\u2019a di\u015filer, kad\u0131nlar ve Ortadoks olmayan kimse ayak basamaz. Bu nedenle bende, Silivri Tarihi kitab\u0131 yazar\u0131 olan Dr. Cemal Kozano\u011flu<\/strong> referans\u0131 ile eski Selimpa\u015fa ve yeni G\u00f6k\u00e7eada<\/strong>–Bozcaada Metropoliti Kyrillos SYK\u0130S <\/strong>destekli ve de 1940-G\u00f6k\u00e7eada Zeytinlik\u00f6y do\u011fumlu, Rum Ortodoks Patrikhanesi Ba\u015fpiskoposu Dimitry I. Bartholomeos<\/strong>\u2019tanald\u0131\u011f\u0131m Patrikhane m\u00fch\u00fcrl\u00fc \u00f6zel mektup sayesinde, vizemi ve vapur biletimi al\u0131p, feribota bindim. Feribot yar\u0131m saat Ege Denizi\u2019ne a\u00e7\u0131ld\u0131ktan sonra, durdu ve kaptan benim ismimi anons etmeye ba\u015flad\u0131: \u201cBay Dursun \u00d6zden, \u00e7ok acil olarak, l\u00fctfen kaptan k\u00f6\u015fk\u00fcne geliniz\u2026\u201d <\/em>Ben hi\u00e7 ald\u0131r\u0131\u015f etmedim. Ama kaptan \u0131srarla anons ediyordu ad\u0131m\u0131. Gemidekiler, homurdanmaya ba\u015flad\u0131lar. \u201cAyin t\u00f6renine ge\u00e7 kalaca\u011f\u0131z. Kimse gidip kaptan k\u00f6\u015fk\u00fcne \u00e7\u0131ks\u0131n\u2026\u201d <\/em>diyorlard\u0131. Bakt\u0131m ki olacak gibi de\u011fil, ben de kaptan k\u00f6\u015fk\u00fcne gittim; \u201cAnons etti\u011finiz ki\u015fi  benim, buyrun, ne sorun var?\u201d <\/em>dedim. Kaptan; \u201cPolis \u015eefi Kaplanis seni ar\u0131yor\u201d <\/em>dedi. Telefonu bana verdi. Polis \u015fefi bana; \u201cSen kimsin, Katolik, Protestan, M\u00fcsl\u00fcman\u2026 Sen kimsin?\u201d<\/em> dedi. Ben de; \u201cBenim ailem Bulgaristan\u2019tan \u0130stanbul\u2019a g\u00f6\u00e7 etmi\u015f. Ortadoks k\u00f6kenli bir ailedenim\u201d<\/em> dedim. (Yalan s\u00f6yledim.) Polis \u015eefi \u0131srarla, Feribotun geri d\u00f6nece\u011fini ve beni indirece\u011fini s\u00f6yl\u00fcyordu. Polis \u015eefi bama; \u201cAyan Oros\u2019a Ortadoks olmayan kimse ayak basamaz\u2026 Sen M\u00fcsl\u00fcman m\u0131s\u0131n?\u201d<\/em> <\/strong>dedi. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Kaptan k\u00f6\u015fk\u00fcnde bulunan ve pipo i\u00e7en f\u00f6tr \u015fapkal\u0131 ya\u015fl\u0131 bir Yunanl\u0131 adam (gemi kaptan\u0131n\u0131n babas\u0131 oldu\u011funu sonradan \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fim adam), telefonu benden ald\u0131 ve polis \u015fefi ile Rumca konu\u015fmaya ba\u015flad\u0131: \u201cBen bu ki\u015fiyi ve ailesini iyi tan\u0131yorum. Ve kendisine kefilim. Ailesi ve kendisi Ortadokstur. Bizim dostumuzdur onlar\u2026\u201d <\/em>dedi ve telefonu kapad\u0131. Ve sonra da gemi, kaptan\u0131n siren \u00e7almas\u0131 ard\u0131ndan hareket etti. Sorun \u00e7\u00f6z\u00fclm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. Ya\u015fl\u0131 adam bana d\u00f6n\u00fcp, k\u0131r\u0131k T\u00fcrk\u00e7esi ve Karamanl\u0131ca \u015fivesiyle; \u201cHo\u015f gelmi\u015fen, nerelisin?\u201d <\/em><\/strong>dedi. Ben de Ni\u011fdeli oldu\u011fumu s\u00f6yledim. Adam tela\u015fla aya\u011fa kalkt\u0131, yan\u0131ma geldi ve bana sar\u0131larak a\u011flamaya ba\u015flad\u0131. \u201c<\/em>Benim atalar\u0131m da Ni\u011fde\u2019nin Bor kasabas\u0131ndan. Atalar\u0131m 1924 y\u0131l\u0131nda, M\u00fcbadele\u2019de g\u00f6\u00e7 ederken; Uluk\u0131\u015fla tren gar\u0131ndan Mersin liman\u0131na trenle giderken, a\u011flayarak \u015f\u00f6yle demi\u015fler: \u2018M\u00fcbadele Allah\u0131n belas\u0131 bir \u015feydir. Tren mi yol al\u0131yor, yoksa evler mi?\u2019 Bor\u2019da evimiz ve \u00fcz\u00fcm ba\u011f\u0131m\u0131z var. Dost M\u00fcsl\u00fcman kom\u015fular\u0131m\u0131zdan ve do\u011fup b\u00fcy\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz bereketli topraklar\u0131m\u0131zdan savrulduk\u2026 Anam ve Bubam \u00f6lene dek, T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015ftular. Bizim evde, hep T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fulurdu\u2026 Sende bizim oralar\u0131n kokusu var\u2026\u201d<\/em><\/strong>dedi. Az kals\u0131n akraba \u00e7\u0131kacakt\u0131k adamla. Daha sonraki y\u0131llarda, adamla hep g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck. M\u00fcbadele ac\u0131s\u0131 ya\u015fam\u0131\u015f, ikinci nesil bir kom\u015fu ve dost olarak, Bay Konstantin\u2019<\/strong>in bu iyili\u011fine asla unutamam\u2026 Daha sonraki bir g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fmemizde bana; Ni\u011fde\u2019nin Bor il\u00e7esinde bulunan, Osmanl\u0131ca ev ve arsa tapular\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6sterdi. \u00d6\u011frendi\u011fime g\u00f6re, birileri bu tapu ve arsalara \u00e7\u00f6km\u00fc\u015fler\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u0130ki saat s\u00fcren vapur yolculu\u011fu ard\u0131ndan Ayan Oros <\/strong>liman\u0131na indik ve ben B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra Manast\u0131r\u0131<\/strong>na gittim. Ertesi g\u00fcn yap\u0131lacak b\u00fcy\u00fck Pazar Ayinine kat\u0131lmak i\u00e7in sab\u0131rs\u0131zland\u0131m\u2026 Yemek, i\u00e7ecekler ve yatmak bedelsizdir. Her sabah elinde uzun bir tokmakla ilahi s\u00f6yleyerek ses \u00e7\u0131karan uyand\u0131rma g\u00f6revlisi ke\u015fi\u015fin ba\u011f\u0131rt\u0131s\u0131 ile kalkt\u0131ktan sonra, kiliseye gidiliyor. Mumlar yak\u0131l\u0131yor. Azizlerin resimlerinin es ve ayaklar\u0131 \u00f6p\u00fcl\u00fcyor ve topluca zikir ediliyor. Oturacak yer bulamaz iseniz, uzun s\u00fcre ayakta yorulmak da var. Elinde t\u00fcts\u00fc ile \u201cAmen!..\u201d <\/strong>diyerek \u015feytan kovan ke\u015fi\u015fin duman alt\u0131 t\u00fcts\u00fcs\u00fc ile zor anlarda ya\u015fars\u0131n\u0131z. Toplu ayin bitiminde b\u00fcy\u00fck bir yemek solonunda zengin bir kahvalt\u0131 masas\u0131 sizi bekliyor. Kovalar ve testilerle sunulan \u015faraplar ve kendi yapt\u0131klar\u0131 yiyecekler sizi g\u00fcn boyu tok tutacakt\u0131r. Uzun sa\u00e7l\u0131 ve \u00f6rg\u00fcl\u00fc gen\u00e7-ya\u015fl\u0131 bak\u0131ml\u0131 ve temiz garson ke\u015fi\u015flerin tela\u015f\u0131, g\u00f6r\u00fclmeye de\u011fer. \u0130zin almadan foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmeyiniz. Dayak yemekte var\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Ya da, manast\u0131r\u0131n kap\u0131s\u0131ndan d\u0131\u015far\u0131 at\u0131lmakta var. Her Ortadoks \u00fclkeyi temsilen b\u00fcy\u00fck bir Manast\u0131r var. Yunanistan, Rusya, Romanya, Bulgaristan, S\u0131rbistan ve \u0130stanbul (Kostantinapolis)\u2019i temsilen de adan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck manast\u0131r\u0131 olan Lavra bulunmaktad\u0131r. Lavra Manast\u0131r\u0131 <\/strong>i\u00e7inde bulunan \u0130sa, Meryem Ana ve Azizlerin heykeli, resimleri ve \u00e7ok k\u0131ymetli tablolar sergilenmektedir. \u00d6zellikle, 1453\u2019de Fatih\u2019in \u0130stanbul\u2019u alaca\u011f\u0131 anla\u015f\u0131l\u0131nca, \u0130stanbul\u2019daki k\u0131ymetli tablolar\u0131 ve de\u011ferli e\u015fyalar\u0131 ka\u00e7\u0131r\u0131p, buraya ta\u015f\u0131m\u0131\u015flar. Lavra Manast\u0131r\u0131, Ayanoroz\u2019daki di\u011fer manast\u0131rlardan daha b\u00fcy\u00fck ve zengin miras\u0131n sakland\u0131\u011f\u0131 kutsal alan olarak de\u011ferlendirilmektedir\u2026 Ben \u0130stanbul\u2019dan geldi\u011fim i\u00e7in, burada bana konukseverli\u011fin en \u00fcst\u00fcn\u00fcn\u00fc sundular. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Peki, Yunan polis \u015fefi, benim y\u00fcz\u00fcmden Ayan Oros\u2019a giden feribotu neden durdurmu\u015ftu? \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc, feribot hareket ettikten sonra, polis \u015fefi, benim i\u00e7in yaz\u0131lan bu mektubu zarf\u0131ndan \u00e7\u0131kar\u0131p okumu\u015f. Fener Patri\u011fi<\/strong> Dimitry I. Bartholomeos,<\/strong> mektubunda beni \u00f6ven uzunca c\u00fcmlelerden sonra; \u201cO iyi bir M\u00fcsl\u00fcmand\u0131r\u201d <\/em><\/strong>notunuyazm\u0131\u015f. Oysa Ayan Oros\u2019a, b\u0131rak\u0131n bir M\u00fcsl\u00fcman\u0131, Ortadoks olmayan kimse ayak basamaz. \u0130yi ki, kaptan k\u00f6\u015fk\u00fcndeki ya\u015fl\u0131 adam bana destek oldu. Ona ne kadar \u00e7ok te\u015fekk\u00fcr etsem azd\u0131r\u2026 Ayan Oros\u2019ta b\u0131rak\u0131n bir kad\u0131n g\u00f6rmeyi, di\u015fi olan hayvanlar\u0131n ya\u015famas\u0131na bile izin verilmiyor. \u00c7ifte ko\u015fulan ve y\u00fck ta\u015f\u0131yan atlar ve e\u015fekler bile erkek\u2026 Ada\u2019da di\u015fi sinek bile yok\u2026 Bu nedenle, ben burada ya\u015fayan Ortadoks erkek ke\u015fi\u015flerin \u00f6zerk g\u00fcvenlik kurallar\u0131 manzumesinden dolay\u0131: \u201cAyan Oroz Erkekler Cumhuriyeti\u201d<\/strong> ad\u0131n\u0131 takm\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. Milliyet Gazetesi\u2019nde dizi yaz\u0131s\u0131 olarak yay\u0131nlanan bu \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmam, bas\u0131nda dikkat \u00e7ekmi\u015fti. Belki de, Ayan Oros\u2019a ayak basan tek M\u00fcsl\u00fcman gazeteci bendim\u2026 <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Athos Da\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n defne kokulu yama\u00e7lar\u0131na, deniz k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki u\u00e7urumlar\u0131n \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilmi\u015f dev kale kentlerin kilise, manast\u0131r ve papaz evlerindeki hayat\u0131 da izledim\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Athos Da\u011f\u0131 Erkekler Cumhuriyeti <\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Musahipzade Celal\u2019in \u00fcnl\u00fc \u201cAyan Oros Kad\u0131s\u0131\u201d oyunu <\/strong>ile tan\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z bu gizemli adaya giren M\u00fcsl\u00fcman T\u00fcrk Gazeteci olarak, 1453\u2019de \u0130stanbul\u2019dan ka\u00e7\u0131r\u0131lan \u00fcnl\u00fc tablolar ve kitaplar\u0131n bulundu\u011fu Larva Manast\u0131r\u0131\u2019ndaki 3 saat s\u00fcren ayin sonras\u0131, karpuzlu \u015farapl\u0131 \u00f6\u011fle yeme\u011finin ard\u0131ndan, Atos Da\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n zirvesine yak\u0131n yerde bulunan Cennete gitmek i\u00e7in baz\u0131 ke\u015fi\u015flerin \u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc bekledi\u011fi yere do\u011fru yola koyuldum. Silivrili papaz Rodostolo Hrisostolo<\/strong>\u2019a Dr. Cemal beyin mektubunu vermeliydim. Gelibolu Yar\u0131madas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n bat\u0131s\u0131nda, bir elin \u00fc\u00e7 parma\u011f\u0131 gibi Ege Denizi\u2019ne uzanan ve do\u011fudaki yar\u0131madan\u0131n kara ba\u011flant\u0131s\u0131 olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in Ayan Oros Adas\u0131 olarak biliniyor. Yunanistan s\u0131n\u0131rlar\u0131nda ve \u201c\u00d6zerk Ortadoks Ruhani Cumhuriyeti\u201d<\/strong> oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in, buraya gitmeye ayr\u0131ca vize gerekli. B\u0131rak\u0131n M\u00fcsl\u00fcman olmay\u0131, Ortadoks olmayan hi\u00e7 bir din ve mezhepten ki\u015fi ve di\u015filer bu adaya ayak basamaz. Yar\u0131madan\u0131n en y\u00fcksek yeri Athos Da\u011f\u0131. Bu yar\u0131madaya kara yoluyla girmek yasak. Selanik ya da Kavala<\/strong> kara yoluyla Ouranoupolis Tatil K\u00f6y\u00fc<\/strong>\u2019ne gelip feribotla ge\u00e7mek gerekiyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    2600 m y\u00fcksekli\u011fi olan Athos Da\u011f\u0131<\/strong>‘n\u0131n 1500 m.sinde bulunan kilise ve papaz evlerine ula\u015fmak i\u00e7in ise, \u0131ss\u0131z da\u011f yollar\u0131ndan t\u0131rmanmak gerek.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    N. Smerna (Romanya) Manast\u0131r\u0131’<\/strong>ndan sonra zorlu bir t\u0131rman\u0131\u015f ba\u015flar. Sinek ve ar\u0131lardan ba\u015fka canl\u0131n\u0131n g\u00f6r\u00fclmedi\u011fi da\u011f yollar\u0131nda defne kokulu Athos Da\u011f\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00fcrk\u00fct\u00fcc\u00fc yaln\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131 sizi korku \u0131sl\u0131klar\u0131 ve yaln\u0131zl\u0131k \u015fark\u0131lar\u0131 s\u00f6ylemeye zorlar. Oysa sizi sizden ba\u015fka duyan yoktur. \u0130lerideki d\u00fczl\u00fckte tarla s\u00fcren, f\u0131nd\u0131k toplayan, k\u0131y\u0131da kalamar temizleyen ve denizde bal\u0131k tutan papazlar, \u00e7ok uzaklarda kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r \u015fimdi\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u0130yi kom\u015fu karde\u015ften de \u00fcst\u00fcnd\u00fcr derler. Gezim, Toros’tan Athos’a bir kom\u015fu merhabas\u0131… Hem de, d\u00fc\u015fman \u00e7atlat\u0131r cinsten… 75 y\u0131l \u00f6nce unutulan bir \u00e7eyiz sand\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 kom\u015fu k\u0131z\u0131na teslim eden bir Akdeniz s\u0131cakl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ya da halklar\u0131n karde\u015fli\u011fi… Kom\u015fu merhaba… Meryem herkesin anas\u0131… Meryem Bah\u00e7esine girmek i\u00e7in, vizeye ne gerek var?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Oysa Agion Oros’a gitmek i\u00e7in bir s\u00fcr\u00fc formalitelerin ve belgelerin yan\u0131 s\u0131ra; Ortodoks olman\u0131z gerekir. Bir ba\u015fka \u015fart ise, Athos Da\u011f\u0131na giden feribota yaln\u0131zca erkekler binebilir. G\u00f6revlinin dedi\u011fine g\u00f6re: “Athos’a di\u015filer giremez. Buras\u0131 erkekler cumhuriyetidir!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Ortadoks olmayanlar, kad\u0131nlar ve di\u015fi sinekler bile giremez<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Ayan Oros; Meryem Bah\u00e7esi <\/strong>anlam\u0131na geldi\u011fi i\u00e7in, Meryem Ana\u2019dan sonra gelen t\u00fcm kad\u0131n ve di\u015filerin \u201c\u015eeytan\u201d <\/strong>oldu\u011funa inan\u0131l\u0131yor. Bu nedenle adada di\u015filerin ya\u015famas\u0131na izin verilmiyor. Ayan Oros\u2019da say\u0131lar\u0131 900 kadar olan erkek ke\u015fi\u015fler ve hizmet g\u00f6ren erkek e\u015fekler ya\u015f\u0131yor yaln\u0131zca. Athos’a ayak basan ve burada 5 g\u00fcn ayinlere kat\u0131l\u0131p, \u00e7al\u0131\u015farak ve Yar\u0131madan\u0131n tamam\u0131n\u0131 gezip, Ortodoks papazlarla birlikte ya\u015fayan ilk M\u00fcsl\u00fcman T\u00fcrk ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131 yazar olmam\u0131 sa\u011flayan Silifke eski Ortodoks Metropoliti Bay Krilos. <\/strong>Fener Ba\u015f Patri\u011fi Bartelomos ve “Silivri Tarihi”<\/strong> kitab\u0131 yazar\u0131 Dr. Cemal Kozano\u011flu<\/strong>‘nun \u00f6zel mektuplar\u0131 i\u015fe yarad\u0131. Amac\u0131m Anadolu’dan g\u00f6\u00e7 eden Rumlar\u0131n ya\u015fayanlar\u0131yla konu\u015fmak, d\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn ve k\u0131na gecesi ba\u015fta olmak \u00fczere ortak k\u00fclt\u00fcr ve sosyal ili\u015fkileri ara\u015ft\u0131rmakt\u0131. Tabii Athos’daki ya\u015fam da \u00e7ekiyordu beni. Athos Da\u011f\u0131\u2019<\/strong>n\u0131n zirvesine yak\u0131n bir yerde oturan Silivri’nin Selimpa\u015fa kasabas\u0131ndan g\u00f6\u00e7 etti\u011fi i\u00e7in T\u00fcrk\u00e7e konu\u015fabilen papaz Rodostolo Hrisostolo <\/strong>ile de konu\u015fmak istiyordum. Ama olmad\u0131. \u00c7\u00fcnk\u00fc bu papaz, Atos Da\u011f\u0131 zirvesinde buluna \u201cCennet Evi\u201d<\/strong>ne gitmi\u015f ve orada \u00f6lmek i\u00e7in s\u0131ra bekledi\u011fini \u00f6\u011frendim. Ayr\u0131ca Ortadoks ke\u015fi\u015fler; <\/strong> “cinsel ili\u015fkinin g\u00fcnah ve yasak oldu\u011fu” inanc\u0131n\u0131<\/em> \u015fiar edinmi\u015f gen\u00e7 papazlar\u0131 da merak ediyordum do\u011frusu\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Medeniyetten uzakta Orta \u00c7a\u011f\u0131 ya\u015famak…<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Umberto Eco<\/strong>\u2019nun \u00fcnl\u00fc roman\u0131 \u201cG\u00fcl\u00fcn Ad\u0131\u201d <\/strong>kitab\u0131ndaki zaman ve mekana bir yolculuktu benim maceram\u2026 Ke\u015ffetme duygusu, merak, biraz korku ve biraz da ara\u015ft\u0131rmac\u0131 yazar olman\u0131n delice \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131nl\u0131\u011f\u0131 denebilir bu geziye\u2026 Athos Da\u011f\u0131’<\/strong>n\u0131n defne kokulu yama\u00e7lar\u0131na ve deniz k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki u\u00e7urumlar\u0131n \u00fczerine in\u015fa edilmi\u015f, \u00f6zg\u00fcn mimarisi olan rengarenk tarihi dev kale \u015fehirler, manast\u0131rlar, kiliseler ile papaz evlerinde ak\u015fam saat 7’de dev kap\u0131lar kilitleniyor, d\u0131\u015far\u0131dakiler i\u00e7eri giremiyor ve i\u00e7erdekiler de d\u0131\u015far\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kam\u0131yor. Manast\u0131rlar baz\u0131lar\u0131nda jenerat\u00f6rler olsa da genelde mum \u0131\u015f\u0131klar\u0131yla ayd\u0131nlat\u0131l\u0131yor. Telsizli da\u011f minib\u00fcslerini saymazsan\u0131z telefon, faks, radyo ve televizyon yan\u0131 s\u0131ra, teknoloji yok burada.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Uzun zaman da\u011f yollar\u0131nda yaya y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek ak\u015fam olunca s\u0131\u011f\u0131nmak zorunda kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m Romanya Manast\u0131r\u0131nda, “ho\u015f geldiniz”<\/em><\/strong> ikram\u0131nda verilen su, kahve ve lokum yorgunlu\u011fumu birazc\u0131k olsun dindirdi. Yar\u0131madan\u0131n ucunda bulunan 50 papaz\u0131n ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 ve o ak\u015fam 300 ki\u015finin kat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 y\u0131l\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck yortu ayininin yap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra Manast\u0131r\u0131<\/strong>‘nda ge\u00e7en g\u00fcnler ve sonras\u0131nda konu\u015ftu\u011fum Ba\u015fpapaz Angolidos Yakodos (85) <\/strong>ve \u00f6teki iki b\u00fcy\u00fck papaz\u0131n da kat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 ak\u015fam yeme\u011fi yenirken, bir papaz s\u00fcrekli y\u00fcksek bir yerde \u201cAmen!..) diyerek dua ediyordu\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Manast\u0131rlarda, sabah saat: 4’te \u00e7an sesleriyle ba\u015fl\u0131yor ya\u015fam. Saat 6’ya kadar her onbe\u015f dakikada bir, elindeki uzun kalasa a\u011fa\u00e7 tokmakla vurarak melodik sesler \u00e7\u0131karan Uyand\u0131rma g\u00f6revlisi papaz<\/strong>, t\u00fcm ko\u011fu\u015flar\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde dola\u015f\u0131yor. D\u0131\u015f duvarlar\u0131 k\u0131z\u0131la boyal\u0131, \u00e7at\u0131s\u0131 ince ta\u015f duvaklarla kapl\u0131 ya\u015fl\u0131 kilisede \u00f6nce \u00fc\u00e7 mum yak\u0131l\u0131p ve gerekli kutsal yerler \u00f6p\u00fcld\u00fckten sonra sabah duas\u0131 yap\u0131l\u0131yor. Kahvalt\u0131 sonras\u0131 herkes i\u015fine, tarlaya, ar\u0131c\u0131l\u0131k yapmaya, bal\u0131k tutmaya, odun toplamaya ve hizmet i\u015flerine gidiyor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Athos Da\u011f\u0131 azizlerinin her birinin ba\u015fka \u00f6zellikleri var. Bu azizlerin, kendilerini t\u00fcrl\u00fc k\u00f6t\u00fcl\u00fcklerden koruduklar\u0131na inan\u0131yorlar. \u00d6rne\u011fin, Deniz Azizi: Aynikola. Da\u011f Azizi: Profitilya. Bu aziz insanlar\u0131, r\u00fczgar, ya\u011fmur ve depremden koruyor. Gebe kad\u0131n Aziz: Ayos Lefteri. G\u00f6z Azizi: Ay\u0131ya Paraskevi. Yolculuk Azizi: Hristoforos. Sava\u015f Azizi: Ay\u0131ya Varvara.<\/strong> \u00c7e\u015fitli felaketler kar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda dua eden Ortodokslar yel eserken; “Profitilya ko\u015fuyor” <\/em><\/strong>diyorlar. Kimi bitkiler de Ortodokslarca kutsal say\u0131l\u0131yor. B\u00fcy\u00fck Lavra Manast\u0131r\u0131ndaki ayinde, fesle\u011fen kokulu, \u00e7\u0131ng\u0131rakl\u0131 t\u00fcts\u00fc ile devaml\u0131 \u015feytanlar\u0131 kovan gen\u00e7 papaz\u0131n ilahileri ve kutsal dualar\u0131, dini telkinlerle daha bir uzun s\u00fcr\u00fcyor. Ayin s\u0131ras\u0131nda ve t\u00fcm zamanlarda, kilisede ve her yerde, kara giysileri ile dola\u015fan papazlar\u0131n bak\u0131\u015flar\u0131nda \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fc\u011fe susam\u0131\u015fl\u0131klar\u0131 vard\u0131 sanki. B\u00fcy\u00fck bir kazanda bal\u0131k ha\u015flayan ke\u015fi\u015fin foto\u011fraf\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekerken beni g\u00f6rd\u00fc ve elindeki uzun sopay\u0131 bana f\u0131rlatt\u0131. Ben ko\u015farak oradan uzakla\u015ft\u0131m ve ke\u015fi\u015f b\u00fcy\u00fck d\u0131\u015f kap\u0131y\u0131 kapad\u0131 ve benim i\u00e7eri girmemi engelledi. O geceyi, biraz tedirgin olarak d\u0131\u015far\u0131da ge\u00e7irdim. Ertesi g\u00fcn ise Romanya Manast\u0131r\u0131na gittim. Ve beni; bir sini \u00fczerinde bulunan \u00fc\u00e7 adet lokum, bir kadeh uzo, bir dilim ekmek ve bir dilim karpuzla kar\u015f\u0131lad\u0131lar\u2026 O geceyi orada ge\u00e7irdim. Sabah erkek saatte ise, elindeki uzun tahtaya toklamla vurarak ilahiler s\u00f6yleyen \u201cUyand\u0131rma g\u00f6revlisi ke\u015fi\u015f\u201d<\/strong>in sesiyle kalkt\u0131m ve di\u011fer ke\u015fi\u015fler ve konuklarla birlikte sabah ayinine gittik\u2026 Yeni bir maceral\u0131 g\u00fcn, beni bekliyordu\u2026 5 g\u00fcn s\u00fcren Ayan Oros<\/strong> gezim sona erdi\u2026 Bu \u00e7ok \u00f6zel ayr\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131 olan gezi yaz\u0131m; Milliyet Gazetesi\u2019nde ve Trakya Ekspres Gazetesi\u2019nde dizi yaz\u0131s\u0131 olarak yay\u0131nland\u0131\u2026 \u00c7ok ilgi \u00e7ekti\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u201c<\/em>Atat\u00fcrk bizi evlendirecekti\u201d<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    E\u011fer belediyeler \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc a\u00e7arlarsa; eski bir kilise \u00fczerinde yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f Silivri Fatih Camisi alt\u0131nda bulunan Kutsal Ayazma ve Sarn\u0131c\u0131, De\u011firmenk\u00f6y Germiyan Kilisesi, Fenerk\u00f6y (Fanari) Kilisesi, \u00c7antu\u011fa Papaz\u0131n Kilisesi,  <\/strong>ve (New Epivati) Selimpa\u015fa K\u0131zlar Manast\u0131r\u0131-Srandi Arhiyeni Rum Okulu<\/strong> gibi pek \u00e7ok eski Ortadoks inanc\u0131n\u0131n miras\u0131 olan yap\u0131lar\u0131n onar\u0131lmas\u0131na, her t\u00fcrl\u00fc maddi destek sa\u011flayacaklar\u0131n\u0131 vurgulayan Bay Kyrillos<\/strong>, \u201cBizler bu topraklar\u0131n karde\u015f \u00e7ocuklar\u0131 ve yard\u0131msever kom\u015fular\u0131y\u0131z. Bunu biz hi\u00e7 unutmuyoruz\u2026\u201d <\/em>dedi. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u00d6te yandan, Fener Ortadoks Patri\u011fi Bartelamos<\/strong>\u2019un yazd\u0131\u011f\u0131 Patrikhane m\u00fch\u00fcrl\u00fc \u00f6zel mektup sayesinde, \u00d6zerk Ruhani Oradoks Erkekler Cumhuriyeti<\/strong> Ayan Oros<\/strong>\u2019a ve 2033 metre y\u00fcksekli\u011findeki Athos Da\u011f\u0131\u2019<\/strong>na gitmeme yard\u0131mc\u0131 olan G\u00f6k\u00e7eada\u2019da ya\u015fayan Bozcaada\u2019n\u0131n yeni Metropoliti Kyrillos SYK\u0130S,<\/strong> T\u00fcrk halk\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ok seviyor ve tam bir Atat\u00fcrk hayran\u0131\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \u201cEge Denizi kararmadan ve da\u011flar uykuya dalmadan \u00f6nce\u201d, <\/em>Athos Da\u011f\u0131 burcunda, g\u00fcn bat\u0131m\u0131 zaman\u0131, son vapuru u\u011furlarken; as\u0131rl\u0131k zeytin a\u011fac\u0131 g\u00f6lgesinde, bal\u0131k ekmek, \u015farap ya da uzo-rak\u0131 e\u015fli\u011finde, harmandal\u0131-\u00e7iftetelli oynarken, m\u00fcbadele ac\u0131s\u0131 ya\u015famadan, s\u00f6yledi\u011fimiz rebetiko \u015fark\u0131s\u0131 kulaklar\u0131m\u0131zda \u00e7\u0131nl\u0131yor<\/strong>\u2026 <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Silivri Belediyesi eski Ba\u015fkan\u0131 Selami De\u011firmenci\u2019<\/strong>nin kay\u0131nbabas\u0131 olan \u201cSilivri Tarihi\u201d <\/strong>kitab\u0131 yazar\u0131, Silivri eski H\u00fck\u00fcmet Tabibi Dr. Cemal Kozano\u011flu<\/strong> arac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 ile 1995\u2019den bu yana tan\u0131\u011f\u0131m, G\u00f6k\u00e7eada\u2019daki makam\u0131nda kendisini ziyaret etti\u011fim G\u00f6k\u00e7eada ve Bozcada Metropoliti Bay Kyrillos,<\/strong> ayn\u0131 zamanda eski bir \u0130stanbul beyefendisi. \u0130stanbullu bu papaz olarak, Atat\u00fcrk’\u00fc neden \u00e7ok sevdi\u011fini \u015f\u00f6yle anlatt\u0131: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    “Atat\u00fcrk, 1934’de yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131 “K\u0131l\u0131k K\u0131yafet Devrimi” ile t\u00fcm din adamlar\u0131n\u0131 kilise ve camiler d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda, kara c\u00fcbbe ile gezmelerini yasaklad\u0131. Biz din adamlar\u0131, \u00fczerimizde siyah c\u00fcppe olmadan, sadece T\u00fcrkiye’de istedi\u011fimiz gibi normal elbisemizle gezebiliyoruz. <\/em>Atat\u00fcrk erken \u00f6ld\u00fc, e\u011fer \u00f6lmese idi, biz papazlar\u0131n evlenebilmemizi de sa\u011flayacakt\u0131. <\/em><\/strong>\u015eimdilerde ise, sokaklarda, din g\u00f6revlisi bile olmayan kara \u00e7ar\u015fafl\u0131-c\u00fcbbeli kad\u0131n ve erkeklerin dola\u015fmas\u0131n\u0131 hala anlam\u0131\u015f de\u011filim. T\u00fcrk Medeni Kanunu ile kad\u0131n haklar\u0131 ba\u015fta olmak \u00fczere, \u00e7a\u011fda\u015f ve modern sosyal hayat\u0131 d\u00fczenleyen devrimlerin mimar\u0131 B\u00fcy\u00fck Atat\u00fcrk\u2019\u00fc anl\u0131yor ve \u00e7ok \u00f6zl\u00fcyoruz\u2026<\/em>20. y\u00fczy\u0131l\u0131n ba\u015f\u0131nda, t\u00fcm bat\u0131l\u0131 d\u00fc\u015fmanlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131n oyununlar\u0131n\u0131 bozan T\u00fcrkiye Cumhuriyeti\u2019nin kurucu Cumhurba\u015fkan\u0131 <\/em>Kemal Atat\u00fcrk <\/em><\/strong>ve Yunanistan\u2019\u0131n eski Ba\u015fbakan\u0131 <\/em>Elefterios Venizelos<\/em><\/strong>, Ege Denizi\u2019nin bir bar\u0131\u015f g\u00f6l\u00fc olmas\u0131 i\u00e7in att\u0131klar\u0131 ad\u0131mlar, hep ya\u015fas\u0131n ve bunun i\u00e7in \u201c<\/em>Yurtta sulh-d\u00fcnyada sulh\u201d<\/em><\/strong> diyen Atat\u00fcrk\u2019e selam olsun\u2026 Binlerce y\u0131ld\u0131r Anadolu Medeniyetinin ortak miras\u0131 olan bu kutsal topraklar\u0131n zengin k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fc, t\u00fcm insanl\u0131\u011f\u0131n bar\u0131\u015f ve huzur i\u00e7inde ya\u015fatmalar\u0131 gerekli ortak varl\u0131\u011f\u0131d\u0131r\u2026 <\/em>Atat\u00fcrk yeniden\u2026\u201d<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Kaynak: <\/em>www.dursunozden.com.tr<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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    Ayan Oros; Meryem Bah\u00e7esi demektir. Ben de, bu kutsal topraklar\u0131n ayazmas\u0131ndan (kutsal suyundan) i\u00e7mek ve oradaki gizemli ya\u015fam\u0131 belgeleyip yazmak i\u00e7in, \u00e7\u0131lg\u0131nca bir yolculu\u011fa \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m\u2026 Kad\u0131nlar\u0131n, di\u015fi olan canl\u0131lar\u0131n ve Ortadoks olmayanlar\u0131n ayak basmas\u0131n\u0131n g\u00fcnah ve yasak oldu\u011fu Erkekler Cumhuriyeti Ayan Orfoz\u2019ta, 5 g\u00fcn Orta \u00c7a\u011f\u0131 ya\u015fad\u0131m\u2026 Zorlu bir 5 g\u00fcn\u2026 Vize ve gerekli izin …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":10743,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[66,65],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10732"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=10732"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10732\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":10778,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/10732\/revisions\/10778"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/10743"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=10732"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=10732"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.dursunozden.com.tr\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=10732"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}